There are two different versions of the PVS-69 Battery Pack; Analog and Digital. 99% of the assembly process is the same except for the digital where you'll solder the copper wire in the middle for "GROUND". 

PVS-69 Battery Pack (BP) Assembly

Step 1: Gather your parts

• - 1x 3ft Angled Male DC Plug
• - 1x Bottom Battery Pack Wire Boot
• - 1x Battery Pack PCB
• - 1x 6in Solid Copper Wire
• - 4x Pogo Pins
• - 4x Battery Springs
• - 1x M5 Bolt and Heat Insert

 

Step 2: Prepare your BP PCBs

 

Step 3: Solder the Battery Springs

 

Step 4: Cut the solid Copper wires just a little bit taller than the main Battery Housing

 

Step 5: Place Bottom PCB in correct location and insert the copper wires you just cut. Make sure main BP Housing is sitting flat.

*If doing the Digital you'll want to use the "6VDC" and "GND" instead. The Digial BP PCB is also different and should be clearly marked. 

 

Step 6: Solder the Copper wires

 

Step 7: Cut off all excess posts from the Bottom BP PCB including the battery springs and copper wires.

Before:

After:

 

Step 8: Install the M5 Heat Insert.

Use your soldering iron and while it's still semi-soft you can thread on the screw to level out the insert.

 

Step 9: Install the Rectangular PCB as shown.

Make sure to thread the bolt BEFORE you solder the copper wires. It will be misaligned and you won't be able to thread on the bolt afterwards.

 

Step 10: Solder the POGO Pins

*Note: The original POGO pins were inserted through the PCB holes but I've since discovered that the pins are now manufactured with a slight tolerance issue and will "crimp" the side walls of the pins when inserting and the internal spring mechanism will cause a "stuck" pin. I have bought the POGO pins from at least 4 different vendors on Ebay, Amazon and Aliexpress all with the same result so I've switched out to these pins. They sit on top of the PCB and it's actually easier to solder and level these since gravity is doing all the work. These will be included in the kit if you buy it from me. 

 

Step 11: Glue the Top PCB to the Top Cover.

There are holes for mounting screws but it'll prevent the POGO pins from making contact with the Rectangular PCB. 

*Depending on what glue or adhesive you use make sure to follow the proper cure time. 

 

Step 12: Not necessary but recommended.

Apply adhesive on the sides on the Bottom BP PCB. Long-term battery usage will *potentially* cause warpage or stress cracks in the PCB.

 

Step 13: Cut the DC Power Cable to your preferred length.

I usually cut mine to 20". It should be enough to go from the back of your helmet to the front. It's always better to have more than not enough. 

 

Step 14: Strip 1.5"

 

Step 15: Install Bottom BP Boot

If you bought my kit this will come with it instead of having a gaping hole in the bottom.

 

Step 16: Route the DC Power Cable through the Boot

 

Step 17: Solder the DC Power Cable to it's respective location

 

Step 18: Strain relief

Not necessary but put a zip tie here to prevent the cable from being accidently ripped out.

 

Step 19: Check each battery slot for voltage. If GTG, glue the bottom cover and you're done!